Varanasi, India

 

Reputed to be the oldest living city in the world, having been continually inhabited for more than 4000 years, Varanasi (formerly Benares) is also one of the holiest places of Hinduism. It is so revered that the devout believe that just by dying there they can be freed from the endless cycle of rebirth. The old Hindu name for Varanasi is Kashi - City of Light - and the quality of light here is truly spectacular. It is one of the few places in the world where this has inspired artists with its clarity and texture. It IS best appreciated at sunrise as the faithful come down to the sacred : River Ganges to bathe.

The narrow, tangled streets of the old town, Godaulia, all seem to lead to the Ganges. Flanking the river and leading down to the water are flights of stone steps called ghats. Many of these are hundreds of years old, some built by the maharajas whose palaces still tower over them. The ghats teem with life: stalls sell everything from vegetables to religious icons, pandas (pilgrim priests) preach to the faithful, barbers shave the heads of pilgrims and mourners, sadhus (holy men) meditate and prrform feats of yoga, boatmen ply for trade, dhobi-wallahs (washermen) beat laundry against the steps and small boys play enthusiastic games of cricket. Streams of pilgrims from all over lndia make their way through this activity to bathe in the river, believing that by doing so they can welsh away their sins. The best way to observe the bathing ritual is to take a rowing boat down the Ganges. This will involve haggling with a boatman the day before you want to go, so ask at your hotel to get an idea of the correct price. Make sure you specify whether the price is per person or for the whole boat. (You might want to get this in writing to avoid the almost inevitable arguments later.)

Next morning, as you make your way to the river in the cold pre-dawn light, stumbling through the alleys of the old town and pushing past sacred cows that wander around freely, it will seem like a strange way to get to Paradise. However, as s oon as you are floating down the Ganges and the sun rises over the far bank, driving away the cold and bathing the ghats in soft golden light, you will forget the discomfort. Hindus try to visit Varanasi at least once in their lifetime, and have to bathe at five different ghats to complete the pilgrimage. Hinduism is a joyful religion, and although bathing has great spiritual significance, the pilgrims laugh, splash, dive and push each other into the water.

It takes a few hours to travel the length of the river, fighting the current and stopping to watch the pilgrims and sadhus along the way. Get your boatman to drop you off at Manikarnika Ghat and walk back along the river to Dasasvamedha Ghat where most boat trips start. Manikarnika is the cremation ghat. (Being cremated at Varanasi is yet another way to guarantee salvation, so many Hindu families go to great lengths to ensure their deceased loved ones undergo this ritual.) Bodies are brought from far away - sometimes on the roofs of buses - to be burnt here. Once at Varanasi, they are carried down to the ghat to chants of 'Ram Nam Satya Had' ('The name of god is truth!'), Firewood is haggled over, prayers are said, then the body is burnt and the ashes swept into the Ganges.

INFO

Varanasi is easily reached by air ,from New Delhi or Kolkata (formerly Calcutta). There are also comfortable express trains, although you should try to take at least one old-style Indian train just for the experience. Accommodation boils down to a choice between quality and location. Hotels near the ghats are generally cheap but shoddy. Those of better quality and therefore more expensive tend to be in the new town. As with most things in India, the contrast between the two is often extreme.